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A/C raw water lines.....
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Meridian Yacht Discussion Forum
  -> Repairs & Maintenance
    -> A/C raw water lines.....
Ocean Spray II
Posted 11/5/2007 4:53 PM (#341)
Subject: A/C raw water lines.....




Admiral

Posts: 606
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Home Port: Sarasota, Fl.
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Does anyone know what is holding the rubber hoses on for the raw water for your a/c? I tried to remove mine yesturday, the hose that goes from the pump to the T where it splits off and goes to the a/c units. I loosened the clamps and slid them down, but could not remove the hoses , all I did was to crack the T fitting and cause a leak! Now I have to replace the T fitting and I am not sure where to get it? Are the hoses glued on to the fittings? Do you need to cut them off to get to the fitting?

The reason I tried to take them off was because I was getting the HPF message after cleaning the strainer, (I had to remove the glass bowl to clean out barnacles) and I noticed no water comming out of the swim platform exits. I did find that when I put the bowl back on, the rubber gasket was blocking the inlet (very small opening) just enough to restrict water flow. I am not sure how to prime the pump? It seamed to not want to pump water, it kept trying and after 3 0r 4 tries, it finally started pumping water, hence, thats when I discovered the T fitting leak! I applied some silicone sealer and a hose clamp to the T fitting for now, stopped leaking but I am taking a trip this Friday and do not trust the repair, any suggestions?
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John V
Posted 11/5/2007 10:43 PM (#357 - in reply to #341)
Subject: RE: A/C raw water lines.....




Admiral

Posts: 707
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Home Port: Live in NJ. Boat in Connecticut & Rhode Island
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I replaced that hose a couple of years ago on my 411 - the one that goes from the pump to the tee. I don't think there's anything holding it on except the barbed end on the tee and the hose clamps. I cut mine off with a utility knife. I'm not sure where you can another tee - check with Marinemax.
On my 411 the pump needs full seawater pressure coming into the strainer in order to prime. Anything less and it won't catch.
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nautimary
Posted 11/6/2007 7:02 AM (#364 - in reply to #341)
Subject: RE: A/C raw water lines.....




Admiral

Posts: 339
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Home Port: Solomons MD
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Ocean Spray, Post you findings and does this fix your problem. I noticed an HPF on our Aft cabin A/C and not much water coming out the back. the salon A/C's have all sorts of water coming out. I am thinking about what to do when I get back to the boat.
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Capt Keith
Posted 11/6/2007 7:44 AM (#365 - in reply to #341)
Subject: Re: A/C raw water lines.....


Admiral

Posts: 708
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Home Port: Wrightsville Beach, NC
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As far as getting the water hose off of the barb at the "T" fitting, use a hair dryer to heat the hose. It will make the hose more pliable, it will expand and will come off much easier. Also, try dropping a few clorine tablets into your raw water sea strainer to keep the barnicle at bay. We have a terrible problem where we boat with barnicles and I put 2 clorine tablets in almost every weekend. It makes a world of difference. You can pick these up at any home improvement store in the pool section.
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YOLO
Posted 11/6/2007 10:53 AM (#380 - in reply to #341)
Subject: Re: A/C raw water lines.....





MYO Owner and Founder

Posts: 2137
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Home Port: Chesapeake Bay
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You should be able to get the fitting that goes to the pump at a home improvement store. I forget the size, just bring the old one in and match it up.

Low water flow: I had a problem with my forward ACs to the point there was very little water coming out. I back flushed/recirculated the AC units using a acid/water mix. Let it circulate (backwards) for an hour or so. Amazing how much sludge I got out of the 2 forward units.
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Ocean Spray II
Posted 11/6/2007 8:02 PM (#402 - in reply to #341)
Subject: Re: A/C raw water lines.....




Admiral

Posts: 606
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Home Port: Sarasota, Fl.
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There is a solution called Barnacle Buster that even Meridian recommends running thru your a/c lines at least once a year. They even sell a 5 gallon bucket that has a pump in it to do the job. I am going to ask a friend of mine to split the cost of the bucket and pump with me since he has a Meridian as well. This way we can do it together (two heads are better than one!). His Meridian is in the shop for just that reason, a clogged line or something. I guess it makes sense about the sluge and stuff, sometimes when I clean my strainers a lot of sluge comes out, I can just imagine what gets thru!

Went down to the boat today and there are no leaks on my repair! I will attempt the repair whe I get back form our trip this weekend. I noticed the srainer gasket was leaking a bit, not enough to make me worry about just yet.

Yolo, I think I will check my raw water pump impellar when I get back next week, I think it may have been damaged during all those attempts to get it running, it doesn't take much to wipe one out.
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MichaelNJ
Posted 11/7/2007 9:05 AM (#429 - in reply to #341)
Subject: Re: A/C raw water lines.....




Admiral

Posts: 1236
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Home Port: Jersey City, NJ
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You really don't need a separate pump. Since you have to take the hose off the stariner anyway, just lift the hose and pour your chemicals in with a funnel with the pump running. As long as the funnel is above the pump, it will prime and draw it through.
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YOLO
Posted 11/7/2007 9:14 AM (#432 - in reply to #341)
Subject: Re: A/C raw water lines.....





MYO Owner and Founder

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Home Port: Chesapeake Bay
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I don't think the AC raw water pump has a typical rubber impeller. It's not self priming which is why it needs to be mounted below the water line. I'm guessing that the pump is fine.
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heron381
Posted 11/7/2007 9:35 AM (#435 - in reply to #432)
Subject: Re: A/C raw water lines.....




Admiral

Posts: 849
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Home Port: Sturgeon Bay, WI.
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The impeller is plastic, good water pressure from the intake line is a most, had mine all apart when trouble shooting. Cleared the line and back in operation.
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Badonka Donk
Posted 7/25/2010 6:07 PM (#27345 - in reply to #341)
Subject: Re: A/C raw water lines.....


Deck Hand

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Home Port: Hampton, VA
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I'm getting HPF with clean strainer and air filters. Installed the Groco Safety Seacock Conversion to run Barnacle Buster through. Haven't done so yet as I'm getting GSSCs to intall just prior to discharge that'll let me recirculate the stuff. In the interim, my yard recommended replacing that "T" fitting with a "Y" to improve water flow. Couldn't hurt, especially if you're replacing the T anyway.
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shelbri
Posted 7/25/2010 6:25 PM (#27346 - in reply to #341)
Subject: Re: A/C raw water lines.....




Admiral

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Home Port: Clinton, CT
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Rick,

If you are getting an HPF code, you are likely not getting sufficient water flow through the unit. This could be due to a variety of reasons. If your strainers are clean you might have air in the top of the strainer preventing waterflow since the pump is not self priming. You can resolve by simply opening the strainer while the pump is on, allow water to overflow and then screw down. This could be a sign that your o-ring needs replacing.
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Badonka Donk
Posted 8/18/2010 1:26 PM (#27879 - in reply to #341)
Subject: Re: A/C raw water lines.....


Deck Hand

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Home Port: Hampton, VA
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Brian, thx I'll look at both suggestions.
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max1908
Posted 8/19/2010 5:19 AM (#27890 - in reply to #341)
Subject: Re: A/C raw water lines.....




Captain

Posts: 124
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Home Port: Stamford, CT
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I Just corrected HPF code issues. Here is what I did.

1. Clean Strainer
2. Clean Glass Housing (refill with water after reinstalling for priming)
3. Flush hoses from each compressor in and out sides.
4. Clean T connection between pump and A/c Units
5. Now using 2 bromide tablets in A/c Strainer weekly (No more growth)
5. Turn it on and chill!!!

Hope this helps.

Bill


Edited by max1908 8/19/2010 5:20 AM
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Kuredu
Posted 8/19/2010 8:00 AM (#27893 - in reply to #341)
Subject: Re: A/C raw water lines.....




Admiral

Posts: 1207
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Home Port: Vancouver, BC
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I have been using bromide in the AC strainers for two years and have not had an issue with the lines. A single tablet every three months or so is all I need but we don't run the AC nearly as much as you guys down south. Our system works more in winter than in summer.
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