Okay, here is the final outcome of our water pump situation.

The company that we originally ordered the pump from, JobbersInc.com, made a mistake and couldn't provide the pump even though we emailed them our engine serial number, model HP and pump model too! So they returned our money order and we bought a new pump from http://marineengineparts.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/page85.html for $700 plus shipping, (thanks for the tip SoaringEagle, Curt)

The pump arrived without O-Rings so we had to order those from Cummins for $24 including shipping, (rip off).

My captain made the pump swap yesterday, taking about 4 hours for the entire procedure. He says he had to explore and experiment with several things to figure out how to even be able to access certain bolts to remove them.

Now that he's done it once, the says thinks he can do the entire process in less than 2 hours the next time, now that he knows how to do it.

So for the benefit of anyone having to make the swap themselves, here are photos with step-by-step details on what to do and in what order.  Sorry that we don't have photos of each step of the process.

You won't need all these tools, but you'll need a bunch of them, LOL...  There is the old and new pump in the top of the photo.

Here is the front of the portside engine. The pump is located at the very top of the portside of the engine, shown in the top right of this photo.

The belt tightener is the pulley to the left of the water pump.  Loosen the 4 bolts that hold it into position, including the front bolt on the pulley itself.  This will let you remove the V-belt.

Then remove the 4 bolts on the front of the water pump pulley, and remove the pulley.

Then remove the inlet hose located on the bottom of the pump shown in bottom of photo below.

Then remove the outlet hose located on the top of the pump, shown in photo below.

Then remove the outlet fitting on the top of the pump, that the hose is connected to by removing the 4 bolts that are above the impeller access plate, shown in the photo below.

Then remove 4 bolts from the front of the pump that hold it into place.  These 4 bolts were previously hidden by the belt pulley, but after removing the pulley, they are easily accessable but we didn't take a photo of it.

Then rotate pump to align the bolt flanges up with the openings and wiggle it out of place and remove it.

Once removed, notice the angle of the inlet hose fitting.  Remove inlet hose fitting from the old pump and install it on the new pump at the exact same angle as it was installed on the old pump.  (Don't forget the O-Ring).

Wiggle new pump back into position and bolt into place to the front mounting plate.

Connect inlet water hose to fitting on bottom of pump. (now you see why it was important to pay attention to the proper angle of the inlet fitting.  Otherwise you'd have to loosen bolts under the pump to rotate it into proper position which is hard to do once the pump is bolted into place.

Loosely connect outlet water hose fitting on top of pump.  Swivel fitting to align to proper angle for water hose, then tighten into place.  Then connect hose to outlet fitting.

Bolt pulley onto front of water pump.

Put belt around engine pulley, pump pulley and belt tightener pulley.

Adjust belt tightness and tighten all bolts.  Be carefule not to over-tighten belt to avoid premature belt or pump shaft damage.

You're done...

Hose engine off with fresh water garden hose, clean up engine, dry off, then start engine, cross your fingers and check for leaks.  If nothing leaks, then spray with corrosion before bolting plastic belt covers into place.

Then as my captain said to me, "Come bask in the glory of my new pump" LOL...

As an added protection, and because my captain is extra paranoid about these things, he left the plastic cover off until we can run the engine for at least an hour or two on a weekend trip, and then inspect the pump again to assure no leakes.